Master basic sewing techniques for altering clothes: hemming, taking in seams, adding darts, and adjusting fit.
Learning to alter clothing is one of the most practical skills you can develop. Whether you've lost weight, found a great piece that doesn't quite fit, or want to refresh your wardrobe, basic alterations can make a huge difference. This guide covers the fundamental techniques that will help you alter most common clothing items.
These skills form the foundation for more advanced projects like our denim upcycling guide and upholstery restoration. Start with simple alterations and build your skills gradually.
Measure and Mark: Put on the garment with the shoes you'll wear with it. Mark the desired length with pins. Measure from the floor or use a hem marker. Ensure both legs or sides are even.
Remove Old Hem: Use a seam ripper to carefully remove the existing hem. Press the fabric to remove crease marks from the old hem.
Cut and Fold: Cut the fabric to your marked length plus 1-1.5 inches for the hem allowance. Fold up the hem allowance and press. For a clean finish, fold the raw edge under 1/4 inch, then fold again to create a double-fold hem.
Sew: Pin the hem in place and sew close to the folded edge. Use a straight stitch or blind hem stitch. Press the finished hem.
Try On and Pin: Put on the garment inside out. Pin along the side seams where you want to take it in. Start with a small amount - you can always take in more. Ensure the fit is even on both sides.
Mark the New Seam: Remove the garment carefully, keeping pins in place. Use chalk to mark the new seam line. Measure to ensure both sides match.
Sew New Seam: Sew along your marked line. Start with a basting stitch to test the fit. If it's good, sew with a regular stitch. Trim excess fabric, leaving about 1/2 inch seam allowance.
Finish: Press the new seam open or to one side. Finish raw edges with a zigzag stitch or serger if available to prevent fraying.
Identify Where Darts Are Needed: Darts are typically used at the bust, waist, or back to remove excess fabric. Try on the garment and pinch out excess fabric to determine dart placement.
Mark the Dart: Mark the dart's point (where it ends) and the width at the opening. Darts should taper to a point. Use chalk or fabric marker.
Sew the Dart: Fold the fabric along the dart's center line, right sides together. Sew from the wide end to the point, backstitching at the start. Don't backstitch at the point - instead, leave long threads and tie them off.
Press: Press the dart toward the center or down, depending on the garment. Proper pressing makes darts look professional.
Build on these skills with more advanced textile projects: